James
161 posts
Joined: 28/06/2006 11:39:53
Location: Downham Market United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Coolant Drain Plug...
Hi Guys,
I tried to drain the coolant down today, in oder to give the system a good flush (had some rusty water!) and so I could freshen up the antifreeze.
I located what I thought to be the drain plug (well, it's where the Haynes book says it was - on the back of the engine, below the tie bar & 4th port on the manifold, 3/4" nut), unscrewed it, and nothing came out! I had a good prod around with a length of wire, and still nothing.....Was this the coolant drain plug?? or is it something more sinister like a blockage of krud within the block somewhere? I even pursed my lips around the radiator neck, put a finger over the overflow pipe, and blew till I went dizzy.... but nothing popped, and still nothing came out!!
Anyway, I found an alternative way of draining it... but that plug is still worrying me!
I'm using the red Comma Xstream 5 year antifreeze in her.... has anybody else used this in a Mini? I'm using it in my 820, and it appears to be ok in there!
Cheers,
Posted: Jan 14, 2007 06:15 PM
Roy
261 posts
Joined: 19/09/2005 19:34:20
Location: huntingdon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
If your mini has a drain tap or plug fitted, it will be on the bottom of the radiator. the only other way to drain the system and the way I guess you used, is to remove the bottom radiator hose and drain the coolant that way!
Your'e right about the drain plug but the haynes also says that this fitting only applies to earlier models.(although it doesn't specify how early) What year is yours?
Posted: Jan 14, 2007 06:24 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
some antifreeze these days is brown, so maybe that. yeah bottom rad hose and lots of wd40 and hope they used galvanised jubily clips.
Posted: Jan 14, 2007 07:09 PM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
As for the actual anti-freeze, well I've heard standard glycol anti-freeze is the best to use in Minis because the new fangled stuff that contains seaweed or whatever can cause sludge in the system and block the heater matrix.
Posted: Jan 14, 2007 07:10 PM
The car is a '88, but the engine is a 1098cc A, of unknown Vintage!
It came from a Lime Green '78 "Conventional" shape Mini, and I'm led to understand that the 1098's only went into the Clubman...
The engine code is 10H791AA if that can help anybody guage it's year?
Oh my god... just had a horrible thought.... the AA at the end doesnt stand for Austin Allegro... does it? :-)
Posted: Jan 15, 2007 11:29 AM
1100 mainly went into clubman for mini's was one limited edition mini 1100. Most 1100's went into the austin/morris/mg/riley/woolsley/(anouth one cant rember name) 1100's has same engine as mini just differnt drive shafts and a low diff ratio about 4:1 i think. yeah talk about good old badge enginering. mg 1100 had 55bhp and a cooper head and twin carbs others had 45-48bhp. also went in some metros i think. They are very torque engines for there size just make sure u dont have an early one these used same conrods as the 850/997/non cooper 998 and are very prone to breaking in the long stroke of the 1098. the later onces as used in cooper 998 are much stronger and are fine up to racing engines.
Posted: Jan 15, 2007 12:17 PM
engine is from clubman saloon so thats from about 69-79(whenever clubman finished in not sure) i think did u put it in with its gearbox, if so then if its rod its post about 73
Posted: Jan 15, 2007 12:27 PM
Both the Mini Clubman Saloon and Mini 1275GT were axed during late 1980 (same time as the launch of the MiniMetro, Metro, Rover 100 etc!) but the Mini Clubman Estate continued on until around early 1982 but was rebadges as the Mini HL Estate and the 998cc engine was fitted instead.
Posted: Jan 15, 2007 07:56 PM
1 posts
Joined: 12/12/2011 09:45:23
Location: London United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Radiator Drain Plug - cant locate!
I'm trying to locate my radiator drain plug so flush the system. According to my Haynes diagram it's under then nearest corner when standing over the engine. But there's nothing there. The radiator looks the same as the one in the diagram in every other respect, and as far as I'm aware, is the original one. But I'm no expert and new to minis so if anyone can shed any light on this it'd be much appreciated.
Thanks
Posted: Dec 12, 2011 09:50 AM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Radiator Drain Plug - cant locate
Very few mini radiators have drain plugs. If you can't see it, it's almost certainly not there. You have to slacken the clamp on the bottom hose and pull it off - not always easy!
Posted: Dec 12, 2011 01:40 PM
Indy
Joined: 03/02/2012 12:25:31
Location: Stockholm Sweden
Oil drain plug for 1275cc
Hi,
I have a faulty oil drain plug that I would like to replace but I can't seem to find a proper replacement.
The car model is Rover Mini cooper (1998) with 1275cc engine and the plug has a sensor (temp) attached to it. I took out the plug and measure it and it seem to have the thread size of 1.4 mm and a diameter of 15mm. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement ?
Thanks,
Posted: Apr 03, 2015 09:46 AM
pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
filters
Yep. Made no difference at all. I did get it to fire a couple of times but it pulled so much fuel through it drained the float chambers before I could adjust the regulator. I havent been able to get it started again since. I think only one is working right as the spark plugs for cylinders 1 and 2 remain dry regardless of cranking. It could just be that they are old and buggered - theyve been rebuilt but are still pretty old.
Posted: Feb 13, 2006 09:11 AM
confused
yeah everything is joined, carb sucks in alot of the fumes but the other just go though charcoal filter which lets air though but not all the fumes. where to get one, minispares dont seem to sell them, cant see any on ebay at moment so, put add in wanted section on here and keep an eye out on ebay. look in scrap yards or ring a breakers company that stock second hand bits lots of them around. minispares might tell u who sells them. but for moment id plug in pipe that vents breather system, then have it draining to ground.
Posted: Jun 01, 2007 07:02 PM
michael
79 posts
Joined: 02/03/2007 23:58:38
Location: Carpi Italy
radiator overflow pipe leaking coolant
thanks for the help barry.my radiator is about 8 years old.its a mini spares 2core with a drain plug/sesor at bottom.my car is a 998ccand has no expansion tank.the water is ok no dark color just green i just changed it this summer.the cap is 15 lb part grc110.do you think that a grc207 cap with a better seal be better.the water goes down just aboue the holes inside the radiator,ad whid cap off engine on,no bubbles.no mayo oil in rocker housing.
Posted: Nov 26, 2013 08:01 PM
matt barker
Joined: 06/10/2011 22:16:14
Location: Reading United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Smiths water temp gauge in 2 core rad
Hi I have a mini spares 2 core rad I my car which has a drain plug at bottom which doubles as a place for fittment of a new temp sensor, I am trying to fit a smiths sensor in t it and have the adaptor but need to know the tread of the female hole in rad and male on he smiths adaptor for, I believed it to be 3/8 to 1/2 but to small and tread to course
Posted: Jul 23, 2014 10:21 PM
Brindsley Wright
Joined: 08/12/2011 16:02:49
Location: Camberley United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Miss fire & coughing
I have a similar on going problem, plugs keep sooting up despite renewing needle, needle & seat and carb leaned off to maximum. The problem started similar to yours intermittent missfire and coughing. It turned out that the new coil recently fitted had a small crack in the bakerlite allowing fluid to leak out, as it drained the problem got worse cos the plugs had a low spark and kept sooting up causing the missfire and cough. Changed the coil and another set of new plugs (electronic ignition already fitted with dist cap rotor etc. No problems anymore, then the missfire returned and was due to plugs sooting up. Clean them, then problem goes away for a while till they soot up again. This is where I need help, what else can cause sooting up of plugs, as I said earlier the needle is standard and new and the mixture leaned off to maximum. Air filter is clear and choke shutting off correctly. Help I'm out of ideas.
Posted: Jan 12, 2012 03:13 PM
z. lamscha
183 posts
Joined: 02/11/2007 23:17:14
Location: rosbach v.d.hohe Germany
footwell flooded
There are drain plugs under your feet, I just fixed a mini yesterday with the same problem. We thought it was the windscreen because that is what normaly is wrong, or lots of rust, but it wasnt, The footwell is covered by factory with jp5 tar mat and under that is little drain caps with teeth on it. My recomendation is remove the tar from the feetwell and and replace it with another more flexible sealant 1st reason being is that you can dry up the tar and inside of the car all you will but condinsation will stay between the tar and the metal and therefore cause unplpleasent rust.If its not that you can also check your gear selector boot, the one under the carpet, its also pretty usual for it to come from the intake hose for your heater.
Posted: Dec 08, 2007 09:18 PM
Jolter
3 posts
Joined: 25/03/2014 11:51:34
Location: Lydney United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Mini Rad C-ARA4442
I bought one of these to replace the Cooper S rad in my MK I (1964) S. Due to the rad size being slightly different - it was easier to fit than the old S one. Looks to be well made, looks good and does the job.
When I came to drain the rad to add antifreeze - I found that I needed a Drain plug key.
The 10/12mm Hex Laser brand Drain Plug Key (1576 part number on packaging) works a treat. The 12mm end fits.
Hope someone finds this of help.
Posted: Nov 18, 2014 01:11 PM
Battery drain!.......help!
batterys do go 'faulty if they have been stored for a while' thas why they have used by/fit by dates dout that is the problem tho. to clean the plates you can give it a rapid charge for a few mins if u have a manual charger, u do have to be careful as u can worp the plates but for a short while it shud be ok and it cleans the plates as the battery boils slightly best release plugs in top to let the hydrogen out and keep away from spark/fire/dont smoke. a simular thing can be done by reving ur engine high for a while, having said that if u drive at high speed or change up at max reves plates are prob clean already. u can also buy tablets/a powder that can clean the plated but this is more for older batterys when u want them to last anouther year or 2. an isulator switch is a gd idea i have one fitted cost about £6 if u get them at the right place. just buy a short earthing strap insulated type and then connect it on the earth. doesnt sound like an alternator problem tho, more likly falty wiring causing it to leak current. ur battery is dry yeah dont covered in condensation best keep it clean between the terminals or it will drain it. i recomend just looking everywhere for faulty wiring. cud look underneath to cheak main battery cable isnt chafed and so leaking current as its earthed slightly.
Posted: Jan 09, 2007 04:18 PM
Rust
you shouldnt use sandblasting on thin sheet steel as will destort it due to forces and heat created. when u come to paint it it will always look ripply. sill are easy enouth to replace. cut one off and replace that side then do other side. if u have a mig welder like most diy restorers use then plug weld to top seam and frount and rear ends and just weld lines between drains to floor pans. make sure it penitrates well as this is a very structural part of the car. patching sills is waist of time will rust though somewhere else soon and will have little strength. filler is no no for sills wont pass mot if they see its been patched will filler of fibre glass. make sure u spray lots of waxoil on the inside. id tend to repair inner sill as its more skilled work to replace it but still quite posible, ud need to brace door opening for that. best way is to prevent rust on minis wd40 in all holes behind door skins in sills, in rear valence ect, clean off any loose external rust and waxoil it if its under side and treat and repaint it on outside. hamarite number one prmmer is good at going over rust if u dont have 100% clean metal. lastly before welding practice practice practice on scrap metal and ul improve ur skill and know how to set up welder better. id recomend geting a mask that only goes dark during welding they are expensive about £80 i think but make it alot easyier u can ajjust darkening too according to welders power. also for welding sills it will be hard with car low down to weld to floor pan. in past iv roled them onto a matrice with door handle and wingmirror removed, ul need a few people to do it safely with engine and subfraims on tho. if not ramps will help.
Posted: Sep 13, 2007 10:14 PM